Shene's Beginners' Guide
to Killies (Non Annual types)
As a short preface and disclaimer, I wish to stress that there are hundreds, if not thousands of species of killies, and there is no one set of rules that can be applied to all of them. The following applies in general to a very large number of African killies; namely Aphyosemion, Fundulopanchax and Epiplatys.
Why
the stupid Latin names?
The
real question should be "Why are all fish not given their proper names?"
With the true species names, the fish are recognized by hobbyists world wide.
With local "colorful names" based on some attribute or sometimes
nothing at all, a uniform identification is near impossible. For many killies
it is taken a step further and within a species the location of collection,
year of collection and a collection code sometimes made from initials of the
collectors is used. Why be so specific? A "local variety" of a species
may actually be a new and different species. Also, just as dogs are sold as
"purebreds" so are killies where possible. You do not just ask to
buy a dog; you identify which variety you are after. From a good breeder,
you get assurance that the dog you bought will "breed true" to its
variety.
Annual
versus Non annual killies
A significant division is made between those that live in permanent bodies of water and those that live in temporary bodies of water and thus live a short life span, only during the period that water is present. Killies in this group are known as “annual killifish”. The annual killifish place eggs in the substrate of the habitat, sometimes actually diving into the dirt or sediment at the bottom and disappearing from sight until an egg or a few eggs are deposited. The eggs will lie in the mud or silt essentially undeveloped until the pond or stream dries out. Once dry, the eggs begin to develop and when the rains again come, some of the eggs will be ready to hatch. Not all will hatch the first time the water returns since in nature it may again quickly dry. Some eggs wait for the second or third wet period to hatch. The fry grow quickly and are usually very competitive since there is little time to again start a new generation. Such annuals include many South American killies and African Nothobranchius species. Until a "killie hobbyist" gets his or her "feet wet", in my opinion it is best to start with the "non" annual killies. This is for two reasons. First, annuals are best obtained either directly from a breeder or via eggs. If there is no one locally raising annuals, eggs are the best choice. With eggs, you must be prepared for a long wait (3 to 9 months, depending on species) for the proper wetting date. This wait can be discouraging. Second, incubation temperature does play an important role in the length of the incubation period. A beginner may not have the controls necessary to assure that the proper temperature is maintained and thus try to hatch the eggs either too soon or too late. Once hatched, the fry must have food immediately and a "beginning” killie hobbyist is usually not well prepared for this.
I am
trying to only "temporarily" discourage beginners from working with
annuals. I feel it is better to start with some non annual killies, breed
and raise fry and then try annuals. In addition, I have not kept or raised
many annual killies and could not provide much sound advice. If you are determined
to try annuals, I suggest Cynolebias
(now Nematolebias) whitei as an excellent annual killifish for a beginner.
Non
annual killies include some of the most colorful of freshwater fish, equaling
many of the salt water fish in beauty. If conditions are right, they will
lay a few to many eggs every day. Eggs typically take 2 to 3 weeks to develop
and hatch. Killie fry are not like fry of many other fish in that they are
hatched free swimming and looking for food immediately. They are in relatively
hard egg shell membranes and consume all egg nutrients prior to breaking out
of the egg shell. Since eggs are laid only a few at a time, there is no "spawn"
of fry to raise, but many fish of different ages. This is probably one of
the biggest reasons killies are not commonly raised or sold commercially.
Although
many killies can do well in a community tank, most people who keep killies
keep them in tanks isolated by species. A "breeding tank", usually
a 2 1/2 to 5
1/2 gallons is used for each adult pair. Small containers known as "egg
boxes" are used to raise fry for a few weeks to a month, and larger tanks
are used to raise fry after a month or two of age (At this age, they are too
big for their older brothers and sisters to eat and fish of several weeks
to a month of age difference can be put together). When raised together, a
natural hierarchy of dominance is established and competition among males
is avoided if there is enough room for the fish.
OK,
I want to try killies-what now?
First
you need to know a few things. Answers to the following will determine which,
if any, killies will work out well for you. Most Aphyosemion, Epiplatys and
Fundulopanchax species are best bred in soft, acidic water.
1) What
is your water like? Hardness (DH), temperature, and pH
2) Are
you willing to use live foods? Hatch
brine shrimp, raise white worms or daphnia or will you restrict them to flake
or to frozen foods. Buying live foods at the local fish store can get quite
expensive.
1) Most
Aphyosemion, Fundulopanchax and Epiplatys killies will survive in hard alkaline
water, however, their natural habitat is over igneous rock and the water can
therefore dissolve few minerals, assuring soft water. Calcium and magnesium
carbonate in the water can cause the egg membrane to "harden" before
it is fertilized, resulting in mostly sterile eggs. The fish do not mind (usually),
but the eggs will. If your water is DH 0 to 4 from the tap, you are in very
good killie country. If 6 to 10 DH, many species will still do well (many
of the Fundulopanchax typically). If much greater than 10 DH, you will probably
have to take some measures to provide water more suited for them. As a very
limited supply, store purchased distilled (not spring) water can be added
in small quantities to a breeding tank. A reverse osmosis unit to produce
such pure water at home (cost-typically $80 to $200) is the salvation to many
killie keepers for an excellent supply of desirable water. If you have very
hard water >15 DH, consider lake cichlids, a very restricted menu of killies,
or the need for a source of more suitable water.
Killies
from
2) Although
many killies will take frozen or flake foods, live foods are better for all
and especially if you want to breed them and raise fry. Some home prepared
formulae are excellent, however live food is often necessary for feeding fry
since motion attracts them to the food. This is probably true for most all
aquarium fish if your intent is to breed them successfully. Epiplatys species
usually prefer to feed at the surface and many will be quite happy with floating
foods like flake food and frozen clumps of food which float. Fundulopanchax
are typically prone to feed in the middle to bottom of the tank. They are usually larger than Aphyosemion and
less shy, so frozen foods usually will be taken. Many Aphyosemion species
are shy and unless very hungry will be hesitant to venture out from cover
to seek food that is not moving. As with all of the above, there are exceptions.
3) Finding
a source for killies is a never ending game. As you decide to venture into
more and more species, you will be contacting more and more killie keepers.
A great investment is a membership in the American
Killifish Association (AKA). If in Canada, The Canadian
Killifish Association CKA An annual membership is worth the cost if only
as a source for a list of AKA members near to you. Additionally affiliate
clubs, fish and egg listings, articles on keeping and breeding species and
a wealth of information can be on hand for the membership dues. If you "get
into" killies, a drive of 100 to 200 miles is considered nothing to see
another's fish room and acquire a different species.
Even
easy to breed and raise killies are still a lot of work. To breed the fish,
raise they young and package for shipment, $6 is a real bargain. It likely
represents absolutely no profit to the seller. Most killie breeders do it
as a pleasurable hobby and try to sell their extra fish, to make room for
more and to help cover the costs for food for their fish. Good starter fish
are usually between $6 and $10 a pair. More difficult species are sometimes
found at super bargain prices ($12 to $20 a pr), but usually in very limited
numbers. Such fish are difficult to find. The
breeder had to search and probably spend a pile on his initial pair(s) and
does deserve some credit for even making them available, usually at a fraction
his initial purchase cost. Depending on availability and difficulty, killie
prices can range from about $6 a pair to well over $100 a pair during club
auctions of new and/or rare species.
What
kind should I start with?
This
can usually be determined once you have answered the questions on water and
food supply. For good beginner fish, usually most Fundulopanchax gardneri
varieties are good. They can do well in a wide variety of water conditions
and take to frozen foods well. For cooler water, Aphyosemion striatum varieties
are a good choice. Talk via phone or e-mail to your potential source. Be prepared
to answer the above two questions and to give some measure of your prior aquarium
fish experiences. This will allow the breeder to help you select a species
or two for starters. ALWAYS try to get two
pairs of any given species. This is very important. If a single fish
is lost, you will still have a pair and a spare with a 50/50 chance of having
a pair after a second loss. In addition, just like people, some individuals
are more prolific than others. If you get a single pair and do not have any
luck in breeding them, it could be the fish and not you!
Be pleased,
if the fish are young (possibly only half adult size)and have little adult
color. Young fish acclimate much better and you are much more likely to have
success with them. Good breeders will not typically sell older killifish.
A large pair may be young but well nourished. As you get to know the seller,
you will learn if you are getting good, young fish, not old ones. Any non
annual 4 months to a year of age is reasonable. Some colder water killies
do take a year to mature, but these will probably not be good beginners killies
anyway.
In my
experience it is usually beneficial to have a single pair of fish in a breeding
tank. A third fish will, in many cases, eat eggs or young of the breeding
pair. I have found a reverse trio (two males) less prone to such behavior
than a trio (two females). An odd male will compete with the other male for
the female, but a female will follow a pair and eat eggs as they are layed.
First,
if possible, notify the seller that they arrived alive and well. He has more
of an investment in these fish than the selling price. He has probably nurtured
them for at least 5 months already and is anxious to know if the fish arrived
alive and well.
Remember,
these fish are not from your local fish shop and therefore are not acclimated
to your local water supply. Above, I told you to find out what water and foods
the fish you got are accustomed to so you can provide as easy an acclimation
as possible to avoid losing or stressing your new fish. Hopefully you have
some water prepared that is similar to accept the fish.
If you prepare your water in advance, you should have your fish into
their new home within hours.. If you did not do this ahead of time, it might
take several days. Do your homework and save a lot of fussing after you get
your fish. Your seller should be able to, and happy to provide this information
if you just ask. Mix no more than 25 % of your prepared water with the water
in which the fish arrived. Maintain this condition, in the bag, for a few
hours. If you receive the fish in "breathable bags"
(you can tell as these bags will have only water and NO air inside)
do NOT float such bags in your tank. They must have the surface of
the bag exposed to air to allow oxygen to enter the bag thru the bag walls
or the fish will die. A small "critter carrier (1 quart size)"
works well for this also, but avoid strong lighting so as not to frighten
the fish. Dashing against a hard tank wall can be a lot more damaging than
hitting the soft wall of a bag. After a few hours, you can start to drip your
water into the container holding the new fish. One drop per second should
be fine. If the water is dripping and not running there should be no problem,
so dont bother to try to time the drops. A standard airline is good for this.
Just tie a loose knot in the airline and tighten the knot to slow the water
to droplets rather than a flow. It takes several days to a week for a fish
to acclimate to changes in DH greater than a factor of 2. A change to softer
water is more stressful than one from softer to harder water than which the fish were accustomed.
If you
have not set up water for your new fish that is similar to that which the
breeder suggested, you are in for some patience, work and risk. It takes several
days to a week for a fish to acclimate to water of DH vastly different (factor
of 2 or more). If done too quickly, the fish will probably die. Your best
bet is to place the fish in a very small COVERED
container and add 10% of your water overnight by dripping. The next few days,
add an additional 10%. DO NOT FEED THE FISH. With the small amount of water
present, it can easily foul. Keep adding your water for at least 3 days and
then add an equal amount of your water. Use a larger container if needed.
Wait a few more days and then move the fish to your water. This is in some
cases overly conservative, but should assure the safety of the fish. As can
be seen, it is wise to be prepared in advance. This is a lot more effort than
taken by the average "Fish Store" They have a very big price markup
and tend to lose a lot of fish.
Breeding
See
articles on Breeding Mop spawners (Epiplatys
and Aphyosemion) and Breeding
Bottom spawners (Fundulopanchax.) on my internet site at http://shene.killi.net
Bill Shenefelt
You
are visitor number: